Big colour change? Here's how to care for your hair

Going for a colour change at the salon? Or thinking of DIYing a bold new hue at home? Before you commit, consider how a drastic change can impact your hair's health, appearance and texture and the products and care it will need to keep looking great.

For tips on caring for colour-treated hair, we reached out to Melissa Tedeschi, national education manager at Krastase and Shu Uemura Canada. "When you're talking about big hair changes, for sure you're going into a different routine," she said. "It's a commitment."

Get an expert diagnosis

Before you colour your hair, especially if you're going from a dark to a light hue, Tedeschi recommended getting "a good, good diagnosis" from a colourist or hairstylist.

She believes it's worth both the effort and the splurge to find a professional you can trust someone who listens to what you want, but also considers the health of your hair. "I think a good colourist is someone that tells you, 'Look, we're going to leave your hair alone for a while, OK?' because it's quality of hair first," said Tedeschi. And if you can, find someone who specializes in the type of colour you want, whether that's a vibrant hue or an icy blond. "Go look at their Instagram profile make sure they're a specialist in what you're looking for," she said.

The challenges of going very, very light

If you're going for icy white or strawberry blond and you'll need to significantly lighten your hair to get there, know that the stripping process can make hair more prone to breakage, which isn't ideal, especially if you already have fragile, thin or even curly hair. And Tedeschi added, "When we're talking about platinum blond your challenges are always going to be that your hair is going to be super dehydrated at all times."

To counter that, Tedeschi recommended products with hyaluronic acid, which can hold roughly 1,000 times its weight in water. She also suggested an overnight leave-in treatment for hydration, a hair oil for shine and movement, products with protein to help with any damage and "give muscle" to your hair, and a thermal protector if you're using hot tools.

Fading and brassiness, for blonds, are other common problems. Tedeschi recommended using a shampoo with a purple pigment once a week as a neutralizer but not just on wet hair as you might imagine. "[Apply] the purple shampoo on your dry hair first; let it sit for five to 10 minutes; and then wash it and then use it as a conditioner," she said. "You get double the neutralization."

If you're going red, protect your colour

"Red is a very sensitive colour," said Tedeschi. "It fades; it could turn orangey. Also, you might have, like, less shine in the hair because the colour changes. Certain sections can be uneven after a while." In other words, the hue might look different at the top of your head, where the hair is healthiest, compared to the ends. "[That's] where your hair colour is falling off because the hair shaft is open. So this is where it can be more orangey," she said. She recommended products specifically for red tones that can help seal in the colour while addressing dryness.

Wash less often if you want bright hues to last

No matter the condition of your hair, fading is inevitable with vibrant colours, said Tedeschi. However, she did note that some colours fade better than others. For example, a pink will fade to a light pink, whereas green hair will fade to grey.

"When you're looking at vibrant colours, the challenges are extreme fading," she said. "Because vibrant colours are only deposited on the top surface of the hair, it doesn't go right into the cortex of the hair, so it doesn't seal. So it washes off real fast." With vibrant hues, including red tones, she suggested washing your hair only once a week to minimize fading.

Splurge strategically

If you're dyeing your hair at a salon and working with a good colourist especially one not associated with a brand Tedeschi suggested asking them to recommend products for your hair type and colour. "It doesn't have to be expensive; it just needs to be the right product for you," she said. You can also ask for samples to see how your hair responds to a product, and save money by researching buzzy products and ingredients before you buy, she added.

Truc Nguyen is a Toronto-based writer, editor and stylist. Follow her at @trucnguyen.