Upcoming wild game dinner takes meaty delicacies mainstream

A group of Edmonton chefs are taking a walk on the wild side with an upcomingdinner.

From The Wild Table is a specialevent happening at Three Boars in December. It features some meats you can't pick up at the grocery store: black bear and Canada goose, specifically.

"It's quite like moose or a very lean beef," Three Boars chef and owner Brayden Kozak told CBC's Radio Active about the bear meat.

"It is a very rich, high in iron, dark red meat. Very lean. I couldn't really say it has a particular flavour."

Kozak is one of the chefs involved in the event, which is a fundraiser for Slow Food Edmonton, a non-profit organization dedicated to supporting local food traditions.

It's quite like moose or a very lean beef.- Chef Brayden Kozak, on what bear tastes like

He said there's nothing more local than bear and goose, whichfrequented the Edmontonareabefore the pigs, cows and chickens.

Three of the evening's dishes include bear: one is a bear hotdog, or "bearwurst," as the chefs call it. The second dish is braised bear with a porridge of different grains and seeds, and the third is an open-faced, reuben-style bear pastrami sandwich.

One of the other dishes is a smoked Canada goose with grilled pear and vegetables.

"Goose is going to be served rare.You really can't serve that past cooking it rare," Kozak said.

Hunting down a tasty idea

The idea for the event came from local food guru Kevin Kossowan.

Kossowan has been making hunting films on his website for several years, and one of his films inspired the concept of Kozak's restaurant.

The purpose of oneof Kossowan's hunting shows, called From the Wild, was to showcase the experience of the hunt not just the kill, Kozak said. The show, and the abundance of wild game that results from the hunt, inspired the upcoming dinner.

Wild game, like black bear, isn't usually found in Edmonton restaurants because of health and safety issues.

Kozak said some people are concerned about a "gamey" taste to the meat. But Kozak said he hasn't come across many people scared to try something new and there will be wine and cocktail pairings to wash it all down.

"Why would they be scared? I don't know, cause it's different," Kozak said."We're almost sold out, so obviously people are interested."

From The Wild Table happens Dec. 11 at Three Boars. Tickets are almost sold out, but are available on the Slow Food Edmonton website.