Craft beer boom brews a resurgence in Quebec hops farming

Virtually extinct in Quebec for decades, hop culture is returning to local farms spurred bythe increasing popularity of craft beers.

Hops are flowers thatprovidethe main flavour ingredient in beer, giving it bitter or sometimes citric flavour.

Growing hops was common in Quebec until around the 1940s. It didn't become popular again until around 2010, after a global shortage drove up the price of the product and inspired growers to get back to it.

"Five hundred years ago there was no hops in Quebec," saidLucFortin, owner of a hops farm in Laval calledDomaineBruneHoublonde.

"But when the French and English moved in, they brought plants with them because they wanted to brew beer."

The hops they brought with them can sometimes be found growing wild in forests and fields, and that these local strains have adapted to flourish in Quebec's climate,FortintoldCBCMontreal'sDaybreak.

There are 4,000 different species of hops, saidFortin, about 500 of which can be used by brewers.

"Every hops is different. Some hops will feel like citrus, some will be piney, some will be coconut," he said.

Fortintold CBCthat there are around 45 hops producers operating in Quebec right now, and many are joining together under the banner ofHoublonQubec, an association of hop growers in the province.

He said that as craft beer becomes more and more popular, the hops market continues to grow, not only in Quebec, but in Canadaand overseas.

Quebec's climate is conducive to growing hops, but that doesn't mean it's easy to become a hop producer. The plant is prone to disease and takesyears to produce after being planted.

Fortinstarted his farm in 2011 and after planting his crop, he wasn't able to harvest anything for the first four years.

He still works as an air traffic controller in Montreal, and runs thefarm in his off hours, spending 40 to 50 hours a week on the passion project.

Now he sells his product to local breweries in Montreal and throughout the province, as well as south of the border.