Recipes for pakoras, chutney and more offer springtime onion tastiness

Though rhubarb tends to be the most celebrated early-season crop, alliums are usually the first edibles out of the freshly thawed ground.

Spring onions, scallions, leeks, ramps and chives not only grow well throughout the world, they keep well. So they'reoften on hand to provide a foundation or finishing touch for a wide range of dishes.

Here area few suggestions for dishes to try this spring and different kinds of onions to test out in your kitchen.

Spring onions are early versions of the white or yellow cooking onions that come in mesh bags year-round. In spring, they're often sold in bunches, their green tops not woody enough to compost yet.

The onions themselves are juicy and mild, often with tiny bulbs. They'reso similar to scallions which are long and thin andwithout a pronounced bulb at the end that they're used interchangeably.

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Scallions, by the way, can be kept alive in a glass of water on the countertop, and will continue to sprout green tops. Once a bunch from the farmersmarket produces more roots, they can even be transplanted to the garden.

Then there are ramps, often called wild leeks, which are native to Canada and can be foraged in forested areas. They'remore prevalent in Ontario and further east, however.

They look like small spring onions or scallions on the bottom, with purple-y stalks and one or two long, flat tulip-like leaves on top,and taste robustly of garlic.

Actual leeks, on the other hand, are thick and straight; they resemble large scallionsbut are woodier and generally must be cooked before eating.

While some cooks use green and spring onions sparingly for finishing touches and garnishes, they haveso many ways to use bundles of them at a time when they're abundant and at their best.

Spring or green onion pakoras

Pakoras are delicious little fritters made with gram flour, or that ofchickpea or besan. It's easy to find in most grocery storesand can be spiced with any number of spices.

Most recipes call for garam masala, which is a blend typically made with cumin, coriander, pepper, bay and warm spices, such as cinnamon and cloves. You could add earthiness with turmeric, a floral note with coriander, warmth with mild chili powder or hotter chili flakes or cayenne. Some people add a bit of baking powder to lighten them.

You can use a wide variety of fresh veggies in pakoras. Just make sure they're chopped into fairly small pieces (pieces no bigger than x-inch) so they cook through in the hot oil.

Have themon their own or with finely chopped cauliflower, potato, zucchini, cilantro. Even paneer is delicious in pakoras.

Ingredients:

1 bundle of green onionsor a few larger spring onions, roughly chopped

A few cauliflower florets, chopped

A small handful of cilantro, chopped (stems, too)

1 cupchickpea flour

1/2 cupwater

1-2 tsp garam masala or other spice blend

1 tsp turmeric, optional

1 tsp salt

tsp baking powder, optional

Pinch of red chili flakes

Canola or other mild vegetable oil, for cooking

Chutney (rhubarb, mango, cilantro or whatever you like) for serving

Preparation:

Combine everything, including all the veggies, the chickpea flour, water, spices and salt, in a medium-large bowl.

Stir until everything is well-blended and there's just enough batter to hold the vegetables together. If it seems too wet, add a bit more chickpea flour.

In a wide, heavy pot (I use enamel-coated cast iron), heat about an inch of oil over medium-high heat until it's hotbut not smoking. Abit of batter should sizzle when you drop it in.

Carefully drop small spoonfuls (Iuse a teaspoon) into the oil without crowding the pot.

Don't worry about making them perfect or smooth; any unevenness makes for more crispy edges.

Cook the pakoras for a minute or two per side, until deep golden.

Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate with tongs or a slotted spoon.

Sprinkle with salt and serve warm, with chutney for dipping or drizzling overtop.

Serving:Makes about 1 dozen.

Rhubarb chutney

What better to serve your spring onion pakoras with than sweet-tart rhubarb chutney?

Ingredients:

1 small spring onion, chopped (the white part)

3 medium rhubarb stalks, chopped

1 tbsp grated fresh ginger

1 garlic clove, crushed

-cup sugar

cup apple cider vinegar

tsp cumin

1 cinnamon stick

Pinch of red chili flakes

Preparation:

Combine everything in a large saucepan, bring to a simmer and cook. Stirring oftenfor 15-20 minutes, or until the rhubarb softens and the mixture is thick and chutney-like.

Serving:Makes a cup or so.

Other ideas

Green onion pesto is delicious, made with a handful of basil, baby spinach or kale.

Or you could ferment a batch of green onion kimchi.

Toss them whole on the grill to serve as a side dish, top burgers or pizza, or whirl into onion dip; just add cream cheese plus sour cream.

Make smoky onion aioli by blending a few with a half cup of real mayo.

Trycreamy Macedonian-style feta along with a squeeze of lemon, tossed on the grill for added smokiness and to break it down enough to give up more juice.

Roughly or finely choppedgreen onions can be added by the handful to homemade falafel or dumplings, stir-fries, fried rice, pasta or noodle bowls, dressings and marinades.

Toss a few in to makea quick chimichurri for your grilled chicken, steak or fish.

Dip thin scallions or spring onions whole in beer batter and fry as you would make onion rings.

You could also make some green onion cakes.

Listen to Julie Van Rosendaal's full column about cooking with onions: