Recently Ive been thinking about the conversation around size inclusivity on the runway, or rather the lack thereof. It seems to me that it has lessened, or become less buzzy if you will, which is a great fear for those who have spent their careers trying to create real change and hoping with every passing season that its not just a fad.

My concerns coincided with the start of New York Fashion Week , where, as it turns out, there were some things to celebrate this season. According to theFashionSpots seasonal diversity report for New York Fashion Week, 68 plus -size models walked a total of 19 shows for spring 2020 up from the bleak previous season when 37 models walked in 12 shows.

Tess Holliday strutted down the Chromat runway wearing a sample size dress , perhaps a dig at designers who often blame financial and sample limitations for their refusal to expand their size offerings. And Rihannas Savage X Fenty show was a refreshing contrast to Victorias Secrets shows, which only display women of a certain shape and size wearing lingerie.

There was Tommy Hilfiger and Zendayas show, which prioritized inclusion and representation . And there was, as always, Christian Siriano, the unofficial answer to designers unwilling to work with women based on their size and my official hero of inclusivity at fashion week and beyond.

It sounds good, right? But heres the thing. When you break it down by show, theres a glaring issue: 41 of the 68 were all cast in just three shows: Tommy, Chromat and Siriano. The rest of the castings came in solo or small groups, the highest being Kate Spade New York, Tadashi Shoji, Area and Burnett, which cast three plus-size models each, theFashionSpot points out .