RINCN, Puerto Rico To the west, a giant flaming peach of a sun sank into the horizon. Warm Caribbean waves lapped on the soft sandy shoreline where pregnant turtles drag themselves from the water each season to lay their eggs among mangroves and coconut palms.

To the east, cloistered behind a garrison of plastic orange barricades, dozens of heavily armed police officers paced and revved motorcycle engines, standing guard over gray concrete and construction materials.

Between the two, on a stretch of Los Almendros beach this August evening, is a small village of tents flying the black Puerto Rican flag of resistance.

This is a war zone, Miriam Juan Rivera said, shooting a steely glare at the police.