Slow Food in Tuscany: Savoring Food to Save the Planet

Good, clean, fair. These are the guiding principles of the Slow Food movement, and by adhering to them you can protect the planet. As an environmentalist who loves food, I was drawn to Slow Food from the moment I learned of it. The film Terra Madre was my first introduction to the fascinating gathering of small farmers, producers, fishers and cooks who meet in Turin, Italy, to share ideas and sample each others wares. Carlo Petrini is the visionary who founded the movement; Vandana Shiva is another shining light in the Slow Food constellation.

When I heard that a colleague was taking a study abroad group to Italy to learn about Slow Food, I jumped at the chance to accompany them. Our friend Francesca Ermini, tour guide and Slow Food activist, had prepared a unique three day experience in and around Florence for the students to learn first-hand about food that is produced in ethical ways that honor tradition. Francesca has an abundance of energy and is passionate about Slow Food. She is eager to share her culinary expertise with others, and she easily wins converts to the cause. Francesca encourages you to embrace the principles behind the movement, but it is when you taste the food that you begin to understand.

Our Slow Food experience opened at the celebrated gelateria Perch No!, where we not only savored the gelato but also learned to make it. Unlike the industrial gelaterias with their mounds of brilliantly colored gelatos rising high due to artificial manipulation, Perch No!s gelatos display colors that are more subdued: the pistachio has a soft nut color, and the peach is a delicate, rosy shade. Flavors change daily, so you will be rewarded if you return more than once. Rose and lavender gelatos are among the exquisite delicacies offered. In the Gelato Academy, we learned that only 4-5 basic ingredients go into each batch. The result is a deliciously simple product that highlights local, natural ingredients.

We traveled next to Scandicci, a town just outside of Florence that is easily accessible by tram. In Scandicci, you will find the Slow Food Foundations Bistrot del Mondo at the imposing Castello dellAcciaiolo. This foundation, called Fondazione Slow Food per la Biodiversit ONLUS, is an offshoot of Slow Food International. Their stated objectives are to protect the worlds alimentary biodiversity and gastronomic traditions, and to promote sustainable agriculture and respect for the environment, peoples cultural identity, and the well-being of animals. It was privilege to dine in the outdoor courtyard of the castle, savoring a multi-course meal that featured an abundance of seasonal, fresh eggplant. The servers, all volunteers of the convivium Slow Food Scandicci, were eager to share their passion for nourishing ourselves in ways that nourish the planet.

Our Slow Food itinerary continued on subsequent days to include visits to artisan cheese and chocolate makers, as well as a local farm. The shops we visited were intimate and cozy, and the owners were eager to receive us and share their products with us. At Caseus di Ducceschi e Pinzauti, we tasted a dazzling array of locally produced cheeses, from a creamy ricotta to a salty pecorino. Down the street we visited Urzi chocolatiers, operated by a dynamic couple, Antonella and Francesco, who produce exquisite chocolate made from the best ingredients. While cacao does not come from Italy, Urzi purchases from small producers worldwide who adhere to Slow Food principles. Again we sampled copious amounts of chocolate in a variety of flavors (my favorite was raspberry) while learning about the chocolate making process. Our Slow Food experience was rounded out on the third day by a visit to Fattoria San Michele a Torri, where we sampled wines, olive oil, honey and other food products straight from the farm we had just toured. A delicious farro salad was the highlight for me, as was the honey drizzled over bread and cheese. Our final stop was at Podere Beccacivetta, where we learned the art of making traditional baskets from Giotto and his friends.

While Italy is the heart of the Slow Food movement, the concept is one that is easily exported. It begins right in your own back yard. Summer is the perfect time to connect with local growers and producers at farmers markets and to organize outings to restaurants that focus on food grown locally and sustainably. Learn which fruits and vegetables are in season in your area, and experiment with traditional recipes featuring those products. There may even be a Slow Food group in your town with which you can connect. Take the time to prepare and savor food that is good for you and good for the planetyou will feel better and make a difference at the same time.